Nicky Zimmermann’s show started off with a literal bang. A thunderous zap sound came roaring over the speakers as the lights began to flicker. Some in the front row jolted. It was an eerie techno tune to accompany what would be a tougher-than-usual lineup from the successful Aussie brand. Zimmermann borrowed the attitude from the women of the Maples, one of the buildings that housed students of the Women’s College at the University of Sydney after World War I. The designer discovered photographs from the school during that time, which included images of ladies playing around in cricket whites and sport jackets during the day and wearing giant men’s coats over delicate, silky drop-waist dresses at night.
Zimmermann took the idea of a defiant, strong female and ran with it, showing deconstructed lace with peach-colored bomber jackets and thigh-high leather boots. She also ventured into suiting this season, one of the best examples of which was a striped double-breasted blazer worn over a turtleneck and button-down, with matching cuffed culottes. Textures and silhouettes on the dresses were edgier, too. The designer juxtaposed her usual fluid floral prints with a miniskirt constructed with off-kilter pleated paneling, as well as a relatively minimalist (for her) chevron-patterned black and white knit with drawstring sleeves paired with a tiered white lace skirt.
The stylistic nods to the Maples were well executed, save for a couple of the fluttery dresses that looked better suited to someone dancing flamenco than a girl doing the Charleston in a speakeasy. Aside from the homage to the Women’s College, Zimmermann also had practicality in mind for Fall. After the show, she mentioned that many of her friends and clients often ask her how to wear the light dresses in the fall and winter months, as not many coats go well with such airy, boho-inspired frocks. The heavy yet feminine outerwear this season, which incorporated fabrics like shearling and leather, was the answer.
While those in the front row this afternoon may have gotten a shock in the beginning, it was ultimately a welcome and refreshing new sense of power for the popular label.