Q&8丨探索宁夏精品酒庄，对话迦南美地庄主王方

迦南美地酒庄以雷司令著称。宁夏雷司令的特别之处在于？

迦南美地雷司令之所以受欢迎，原因之一是这个品种在中国还相对稀有。在宁夏这样沙漠般的环境里，比起霞多丽这样的品种，种植雷司令真的很难。

比较大的挑战在于保持果串的健康度——保护它免受疾病侵害——尤其在八月采收前，经常会下大雨。采收时间的选择也需要注意，以避免葡萄糖分过高。与世界其它产区相比，酒精度会更高些。

但你也会从迦南美地的雷司令那感受到不一样的惊喜。黏土给予它干净的香气，包括热带水果、柠檬、香蕉和黄梨等，瓶陈后还会有矿物质风味。令人惊讶。宁夏风土多样，比如我们酒庄这的土壤和金山那片，就很不一样。

去年是宁夏充满挑战的一个年份。迦南美地的情况如何？今年看来怎样？

（2021年）是一个充满挑战的年份，但却是一个非常好的年份。尽管因为冬天天气，酒庄损失了将近50%的霞多丽，不得不买了一些葡萄来酿造半甜白葡萄酒。

红葡萄酒则比（2020年）要好得多。颜色深邃，呈血红色，酒体丰富，但不会过于丰厚。有时葡萄酒就过于丰厚，我并不是很满意，但（2021年）更集中、更精瘦。品尝我们的顶级系列酒款时，我就感叹，“哦，想起了纳帕谷。”

今年，白葡萄酒还不够成熟，雨水导致了一些霉变，尤其是雷司令，产量减少了50%。对于红葡萄来说，如果这样的天气持续下去，大体会比往年提前两周成熟，但产量会比去年高出20%。

您父亲王奉玉在宁夏酒界非常有名，包括作为贺兰晴雪酒庄的创始人之一。他在迦南美地酒庄扮演了什么角色？

我父亲或多或少是宁夏精品酒庄产业的创始人、开拓者。他一直是我的引路人，从德国到中国，并帮助我建立了这个酒庄。他一直在暗暗观察，并为我提供建议，总是积极地鼓励我，让我不要害怕困难，因为困难都是可以克服的。

王方与父亲王奉玉

迦南美地以骏马作为酒标，但参观者总能在酒庄看到许多狗。为什么（酒庄）有这么多狗？

我觉得狗也已成为迦南美地酒庄的形象代表了，因为不仅我，全体员工都很爱它们。我们现在总共养了19只狗。

有一些狗是我从朋友那领养的，但大多数狗都是被主人遗弃的。有时看到有人不能养他们的狗了，我也想带回葡萄园来。偶尔在我们酒庄散步时，也会发现小狗崽，或生病的狗，这时我也会把它们带回来。

我们的酒庄就像个幼儿园，像一个狗和人的大家庭。

您能介绍下您的新项目——木兰朵酒庄吗？这座酒庄是要成为比迦南美地更知名的又一个国内品牌吗？

我喜欢和人们交谈，看大家是怎么定义好酒的，以及发掘现在流行的元素。当然，我们必须出产优质的葡萄酒，同时必须关注我们的消费者以及他们想要和喜欢喝的酒款。

木兰朵是一座新型酒庄，创始股东包括电商和教育平台佰酿云酒（Vinehoo），与迦南美地是完全不同的。虽然两个酒庄都生产优质葡萄酒，但各自的目标消费者和推广的渠道却大不相同。

去年是我们的第一个年份。今年我将在贺金樽酒庄酒庄酿造第二个年份的木兰朵。

由于小马驹赤霞珠混酿，许多人认识了迦南美地酒庄。就这款酒，您最喜欢搭配的三道菜式是什么？

小马驹是我们的旗舰酒款。它与粤菜中的脆皮五花肉可以说完美搭配。此外，牛肉和羊肉串也非常适搭。

迦南美地酒款

您在德国生活了很长时间，最想念哪三种德国美食？

奶酪，有趣的奶酪。德国黑面包。还有白芦笋汤。当然，还有雷司令。

似乎越来越多人来宁夏参观酒庄。您有什么特别感受？

是的，有越来越多游客来访酒庄，品鉴葡萄酒，不仅行业人士，还有葡萄酒爱好者。他们喜欢与我们交流，参观酒庄和葡萄园。这其实是推广宁夏和宁夏葡萄酒的最佳方式。

有点困扰，就是我的酒庄是家族经营的，所以没有专门负责接待的人手。我的丈夫和我因此总是得当导游，带领参观。

如果大家先预约参观，我们可以组织更好的旅程。旅游是很好的推广方式，我们应该欢迎更多的客人来宁夏。

Kanaan is especially famous for Riesling. What makes Ningxia Riesling unique

One reason Kanaan Riesling became popular is the grape is relatively rare in China. In a desert-like environment like Ningxia, it's really difficult to plant Riesling compared to a grape like Chardonnay.

The challenges are to keep the fruit healthy–to protect it from disease–especially as we can get heavy rain in August just before harvest. And to watch our harvest time very carefully because the sugar levels can rapidly rise. The alcohol content is higher compared to some other parts of the world.

But you also get surprises from my Riesling. The clay soil gives a clean aroma, with tropical fruits, some lemon, banana and yellow pear, and, after bottle aging, minerality. That's really surprising. Also, Ningxia has many kinds of terroir–my soil is quite different from that in the Jin Shan [Gold Mountain] area, for example.

Last year was a challenging vintage in Ningxia. How did things go at Kanaan And how do they look this year

[2021 was] a challenging vintage but a very good one, although I lost nearly 50 percent of my Chardonnay in the winter [due to the weather] and had to buy some to make my semi-sweet white wine.

For the reds, it was much better than [2020]. The color is a deep blood red and the body is rich but not too fat. Sometimes we get big fat wines and I'm not satisfied but [2021] is more concentrated and leaner. When I taste our top wine, I think, "Oh, this reminds me of Napa Valley."

This year, the whites are not mature enough and rain caused some mildew, especially for the Riesling, which is down 50 percent. For the reds, if the situation continues, it will basically mature two weeks earlier than usual but the yield will be 20 percent higher than last year.

Your father Wang Fengyu is well-known in Ningxia's wine industry, including at Helan Qing Xue. What role has he played at Kanaan

My father is more or less a founder, a pioneer, of Ningxia's fine wine industry. He guided me from Germany to China and helped me build up this winery. He is always watching and offering advice, always positive and encouraging, and says to not fear difficulties because all of them can be overcome.

Wang Fang and her father Wang Fengyu

Kanaan's labels feature horses but visitors will also find many dogs at the winery. Why so many

I think dogs have also become an image for Kanaan as not only I, but the whole staff, love them. We now have 19 in total.

I got some dogs from friends but most were abandoned, given up by their owners. If someone says they cannot feed their dog, I would also like to take it to my vineyard. And sometimes I find puppies or sick dogs when I am walking on our property, and I bring them back.

Our winery is like a kindergarten, like a big family of dogs and people.

What can you tell us about your new project, Mulando, which aims to be a bigger domestic brand than Kanaan

I like to talk to people and see what they think is fine wine and what is going to become popular. Of course, we have to produce good quality wine, but we have to focus on our consumers and what they want and love to drink.

Mulando is a new type of winery, with the shareholders including e-commerce and education platform Vinehoo, and is totally different from Kanaan. Both produce good quality wine but the consumers each one targets and the channels we use to promote are quite different.

Last year was our first vintage. This year I will make a second vintage of Mulando at Hejinzun winery.

Many people got to know Kanaan due to the Pretty Pony Cabernet-blend. What are your three favorite dishes with this wine

Pretty Pony is our flagship wine. It perfectly matches the Cantonese dish of crispy pork belly. Also, beef and yangrou chuanr [mutton kebabs] go very well.

You lived in Germany for a long time. What three foods do you miss most

Cheese, lovely cheese. German black bread, Schwarzbrot. And Spargel [white asparagus soup]. And, of course, Riesling to drink.

It seems more people are visiting Ningxia wineries. What has been your experience

Yes, we had more visitors come and taste the wine, not only trade people but also wine lovers. They love to talk with us and see the winery and vineyard firsthand. This is the best way to promote Ningxia and Ningxia wines.

The problem is my winery is a family operation. We don't have someone to handle reception and welcome guests, so my husband and I always play tour guide.

If people make an appointment, we can organize a very good tour. But tourism is the way to go, we should welcome more guests to Ningxia.